The Black Tie Dress Code
London has a reputation for the finest tailors and cutters the world over. After all, it is where the modern dinner suit was born. No other street in London is as famous for their fitted garments or quintessentially bespoke than Savile Row. So this is where we start in decoding the Black Tie Dress Code.1
In the heart of Mayfair, gentlemen and ladies can select pure bespoke or ready-to-wear garments, fitted to any body type. This famous street has modernised for the 21st century, but it has never compromised the British heritage or traditions.
Here is where we start our journey to decode the black tie dress code. We also explore if there is a difference between a Dinner Suit and a Tuxedo.
The Birth of the Dinner Jacket
Henry Poole was a friend and tailor to the Prince of Wales. The future King Edward VII wanted a shorter coat. So in 1865, he commissioned Poole to build one. He was to wear the coat to informal dinners at Sandringham. During that era, the standard evening and dinner attire for gentlemen were white tie and black tailcoat.
Unlike modern habits today, gentlemen and ladies of that time period would frequently change outfits throughout the day and into the evening, depending on the activities. This may include hunting, riding, tea, dinner or for attending a ball. By shortening the tailcoat, the dinner jacket was born. However, the colour that Henry Poole selected was celestial blue, not black. This hue may appear more black than even black.
Tuxedo Origin Story
The Black Tie Dress Code in America
Tuxedo is the moniker given to the dinner suit by the Tuxedo Park Club of New York. The moniker is ubiquitous in American culture, with several varying design schemes of the “Tuxedo” appearing less uniformed than the original “inspiration”, the dinner jacket.
As the story unfolded, a club member named James Brown Potter was invited to dine with the Prince of Wales at Sandringham. The Prince became enamoured by Potter’s wife Cora during a visit to America in 1886.
Potter shared the same tailor as the Prince of Wales, so he asked Henry Poole for his advice on what to wear for an informal royal evening. Poole suggested the celestial blue evening jacket he had created for the Prince of Wales. Potter later wore the jacket to the Tuxedo Park Club, where it was soon adapted by other members.
We don’t know whether this account is true since there were no records that survived. However, it is an interesting story of how the Americans adapted the dinner jacket from the British and made it their own.
The Tuxedo has since become a popular attire at weddings and proms, not so much for the well dressed man, but as popular rental items for such occasions.
The Quintessential Dinner Suit
The Black Tie Dress Code or “Black Tie”
The detail does matter when selecting the dinner suit. The dinner suit has all but replaced the white tie and tailcoat as the formal evening attire for gentlemen. The “Black Tie” is the formal ensemble requested by the host. The white tie and tailcoat still has its place in very formal settings such as a state banquet or a royal function. Society and members club events may also make note of it on their invitation.
Oftentimes, people confuse the dinner suit with the Tuxedo. The latter doesn’t appear to have any uniformity or standard build, whereas the former does. Sometimes there are several versions of the tuxedo. And that’s the problem. These design flaws include the outside pocket flaps and back vents, better suited for business than evening. This can be confusing for a gentleman shopping for his first black tie ensemble. Additionally, Tuxedos can be easily located in the rental pile for weddings and proms. Many dinner suits, especially on Savile Row are bespoke.
The Dinner Suit vs Tuxedo
For this reason, The Social Diary refers to formal black tie attire as a dinner suit, not a Tuxedo. The dinner suit has a royal pedigree and a military lineage. The key components of the jacket and trousers also have a definitive look and “trademark” features.
If one is to achieve success in certain social circles, it is important to abide by the standards of dress. This includes having a basic knowledge of what a dinner suit is, and importantly what it’s not (Tuxedo).
The Black Tie Dress Code
Here are the properties of the dinner suit. We are using Tom Ford and The Huntsman, Savile Row as examples. The following are the essential components of the dinner suit.
Dinner Jacket
Single breasted is ideal, with a peak lapel or shawl collar. There is an optional boutonnière for a floral flare, if that is your style. The lapel is made of silk/satin blend. The buttons are similarly covered in the material. The pockets are jetted (no flaps). There are no back vents. The Huntsman uses wool/mohair blend. Tom Ford uses Grosgrain
White Shirt
Stick to the white variety, made of 100% cotton Marcella Piqué bib front, with double (French) cuff, and no wing collar. Pearl or black onyx shirt studs and matching cufflinks are recommended. As a side note, a wing collar is ideal for white tie, not black tie. The white shirt collar should fold over the black tie strap for a clean finish. Stand clear of ruffled white shirts that resemble a prom selection from the 70s.
Black Trousers
The modern dinner jacket has a military pedigree. Therefore the standard issue would be trousers with a single satin galon (trim or braid) along the side of each trouser leg. The trousers should perfectly match the dinner jacket style and texture, White tie trousers have double galon.
Black Bow Tie
Traditional black tie invites, especially for society events, require gentlemen to wear a black bow tie. There are a variety of styles and textures, but it should compliment the dinner suit. It can have a sheen or be matted. The silk variety gives it an extra level of class and sophistication. Importantly, it should be a self-tied bow tie and not a clip on.
The following are optional selections of the dinner suit, depending on your preference.
Waistcoat or Cummerbund
The cummerbund goes around the waistband, with the pleat side up. The waistcoat provides the same effect of hiding the mid section between the shirt and the top of the pants. The waistcoat or cummerbund needs to be in uniform colour and matches the style and texture of the dinner jacket.
Braces or Suspenders
Do not wear a belt. The braces (UK) or suspenders (US) will not only hold up your pants, but give you a better form.
Pocket Square
A white linen or cotton pocket square is ideal, but a touch of colour is not out of the question, either. You can also add a pop of colour for personal flare, but check the invite to make sure. If you are at a state banquet or royal evening function, this is not advisable. When in doubt, a clean white pocket square is ideal for every occasion.
Boutonnière
Some dinner jackets have a buttonhole. You can add a floral look which is optional. The colour scheme should match the occasion and one’s personality.
Black Socks
Argyles just won’t do in this situation. Thin silk socks are an ideal choice.
Black shoes
Should you patent leather or not? The Social Diary recommends the patent leather, even Opera pumps. Otherwise, highly polished black dress shoes will do. One without a brogue is ideal.
There may be an occasion to don an ivory or chalk “cocktail jacket.” The cut and design is similar to that of its more traditional cousin, the dinner Jacket. When selecting the lapel, The Social Diary recommends the shawl collar for a more debonair finish. Follow the Black Tie dress code, when selecting this jacket style. This jacket is ideal for warmer climates and summer socials such as an evening garden party, cocktails or dinner.
The Black Tie Dress Code
Missteps and Misinformation
It is unfortunate that society doesn’t make an effort to hand down the standards of dress, etiquette and manners. Each generation taught their children. This practise was also generational and reinforced in society. The modern era has revised these best practises. It’s trendy to be unrefined. Some of the private members’ clubs, upscale hotels and even Michelin starred restaurants have relaxed their dress codes and turned a blind eye to bad manners and behaviours all in the name of “profits” and the bottom line.
Further missteps and misinformation continue with so-called “etiquette” experts. This is especially true for high society engagements, state dinners and royal functions. It appears that some of these “self-professed” etiquette professionals and online “institutions” neither understand social class or proper dress in certain social circles for that matter. They compromise their dignity to please the “diverse” audience, and make allowances where none should be.
If you do not understand the finer details in these social situations, you will surely “stick out like a sore thumb.” By all means, skip the modern Emily Post versions of etiquette and manners, where they are still trying to figure it out as they muddle along. Instead, learn from people who are already in the inner circle and who live everyday with refinement and decorum. It is better to learn from people who can teach you, rather than those who “play second fiddle.”
The Black Tie Dress Code
Hollywood Fashion
Fashion designers cater to Hollywood to their own detriment. The red carpet is a classic example of “what not to wear.” Fashion journalists and magazines gush over the insane. It’s the moment where discerning people realise that the ’emperor has no clothes.’ This is especially true during the Met Gala. That’s because too many designers take direction from Hollywood “fashion.”
That’s where Tom Ford differs. Instead of taking direction, he gives direction. He understands the difference between a proper dinner suit and a Tuxedo.
George Clooney comes to mind as a backward trend setter. In 2012, he appeared with Stacy Kiebler at the Golden Globes in the perfect peak lapel dinner suit. Two years later in 2014, he married Amal in a notch lapel wedding suit, whilst his friends Matt Damon and John Krasinsky wore peak lapel dinner suits. Society weddings are categorised as a “formal” event.
There is a place for a notch lapel “dinner jacket,” as we explain later. Although one rung down from the peak lapel or shawl collar, it depends on the social situation. It could be true that a Savile Row dinner suit aficionado will view a notch lapel as anything but relaxed, casual or informal. That’s because notch lapels are the most common lapel styles, ubiquitous on most business jackets and prevalent on dinner suit copycats, the American Tuxedo.
The Black Tie Dress Code: Notch Lapel
In British society, there is a dress code for practically every social event and activities. The Huntsman on Savile Row offers “evening jackets” in velvet with a notch lapel. There should be no confusion.
Wool blend and grosgrain notch lapel Tuxedos are becoming quite commonplace in American culture. There are two specific formal black tie lapels. Neither of them are notch.
The Social Diary believes there is a case for the notch lapel version of the dinner jacket but it must first pass the “visual test.” The detailed components of the notch lapel version must adhere to the traditional look of the classic version as listed above in number one. The key components are the jetted pockets (no flaps) and no back vents. The black tie trousers have a single galon (trim) running along the sides of the legs.
Whilst its upper crust cousins (the Peak lapel and Shawl collar) are the acceptable standard for the ‘formal’ black tie ensemble for evening functions, including those high society varieties in London and Newport, the notch lapel can integrate well into the Watch Hill set, where dress codes are more relaxed.
- This story was updated to include relevant information. ↩︎